Piranshar is a bustling town in western Iran, 5 km from the Iraqi border, where the Kurdish smugglers' 1970s Toyota pick-up trucks ply the roads. The market area overflows with goods and young men who whisper, "Satellite. Whiskey." to those who may want to buy goods forbidden in the Islamic Republic. Under the canopy of trees in a nearby park a flock of Kurdish men sit talking and fingering inexpensive prayer beads for sale on the ground between them.